To ensure that you have everything you need to build your pochi, please check that the following components are included in the package:
PCB × 1
Switch Plate & Bottom Plate × 1
Stack × 1
Switch Foam × 1
PCB Foam × 1
Bottom Foam × 1
Rubber Feet × 5
JST Cable × 1
Spacers × 8
Nuts × 2
Screws (M2)
12mm × 8
10mm × 2
8mm × 2
6mm × 2
4mm × 5
* To ensure that you have some spare parts on hand, I have included an extra 1 or 2 screws and nuts for each size. These can be used as backups in case any of the original ones are lost or damaged.
* Please be aware that the kit does not include stabilizers, switches, keycaps, or any other components that are not explicitly listed above, even if you observe them in the instructional photos in this guide for reference purposes.
2. Connect the PCB to the daughter board using the JST cable. Flash your firmware and make sure everything works as expected
To enhance the appearance of your pochi, use a POSCA marker pen or any other suitable material to color the sides.
Color the Body and the Stack
To enhance the appearance of your pochi, use a POSCA marker pen or any other suitable material to color the sides.
Color the Foam For White pochi
1. Use a Mitsubishi paint marker pen to color the sides.
2. Do not worry if the sides do not look completely white yet. Wait until the paint dries up.
3. Once the paint has dried, apply another layer of paint on top of the dried layer.
4. Repeat steps above until you achieve the desired look. (I repeated the above steps 3 – 4 times until I achieved the look seen in the photo below.)
(Optional) Make space for 1.25U Enter
To enable 1.25U enter key support on your hotswap Pochi, a slight modification to your switch plate is required. Please follow the steps below:
1. Locate the area on the switch plate highlighted in yellow in the picture below. 2. Use a clipper or sandpaper to remove or sand down the section until it is level with the rest of the plate.
For best results, we recommend using #150 and #240 grit sandpaper. This modification should only take 5-10 minutes to complete. Please avoid using a sandpaper that’s too fine as it will extend the time required.
Before and After
3. Peel the film off the switch foam and place the foam nicely on the switch plate.
Be careful that the orientation is correct. It’s very difficult to peel the foam off the plate once it’s adhered.
4. Set the screws and spacers on each hole of the switch plate.
Do NOT firm the spacers yet. Spacers should have 1 – 1.5 mm buffers from the switch plate.
5. Connect the cable to the PCB
6. Install stabilizers. If you have the solder version of the PCB, solder your switches and rotary encoders.
For the solder PCB, all switches are south-faced except for the ISO enter, which is side-ways.
7. Peel the film off the PCB foam and place the foam nicely on the back of the PCB
Be careful that the orientation is correct. It’s very difficult to peel the foam off the plate once it’s adhered.
8. Peel the film off the bottom foam and place the foam nicely on the daughterboard and stack the daughterboard on top of the PCB
9. Connect the cable to the daughterboard. Secure the cable with a masking tape (optional).
10. Install the rubber feet.
11. Place the first two part of the stack onto the bottom plate.
12. Screw the two points in the middle of the stack.
The screws should be firmed into the nuts on the back.
13. Screw the bottom plate against the switch plate.
14. Place the remaining parts of the stack and screw them.
15. If you have the hotswap version, install your switches.
Some switches on the hotswap PCB are north-faced. Please refer to the following diagram(*North-faced switches are marked with 'N')
16. Put keycaps on, and your pochi is ready to rock!
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